February 5, 2010

Dear Marcus: Speaking to the Man Who Shot Me

dear marcus

This is a review of Jerry McGill’s excellent memoir, Dear Marcus: Speaking to the Man Who Shot Me. But first I want to tell you about:

My Experience in a Wheelchair

I was in a wheelchair once. It was only for a day but it was enough to appreciate how maladjusted society is towards people with disabilities.

Three of my buddies and I were up in Portland to catch a basketball game and since one of us uses a wheelchair another one of us had to sit in another wheelchair so that we could all sit together. This is one of the stupid inconveniences of being in a wheelchair. First, you can’t sit anywhere. You are relegated to these special balcony areas. And second, you could only be accompanied by one other person not in a wheelchair.  Apparently, disabled folks are only allowed one non-disabled friend at a time.  So to keep that patronizing ratio and sit all together, a second person had to get in a wheelchair and I volunteered.

Once we left the arena I didn’t need to be in the wheelchair but I decided to stay in it for the rest of the night. For one thing, why wouldn’t anyone want to be seated as you stroll around the city. And for another, I thought it would be a great way to work out my arms. And so began my glimpse into what being in a wheelchair was like.

For starters, people stared. They weren’t furtive glances or discreet peeks from the corners of eyes. They were full-on gazes. Suddenly, I was someone who could be looked at without the usual social restrictions. It’s true that Portland, Oregon is a fairly white town and people of color could be considered a rare sight. However, I had walked around Portland many a times without the kind of barefaced scrutiny that I received.

And it didn’t stop there. On occasion there were comments by strangers directed at us. For instance, one guy just mockingly yelled out as he walked past, “wheelchair race!” I was tempted to stand up and chase him down the street. See if he could outrace me.

Of course, there were the countless irritations of living in a world not planned for wheelchairs. Finding a restroom that was designed so that a chair could maneuver in it, not being able to enter a restaurant without a ramp, just to name two.

the boyz

My Experience with Jerry

But all this is a small taste of what my friend Jerry McGill experiences on a daily basis. Honestly, before spending that day in a wheelchair, I never really thought about him as someone with a disability. He’s about as independent as anyone I know, maybe more.

He doesn’t hire attendants and has always lived by himself as long as I’d known him.

He has always worked full time, sometimes working two jobs.

He volunteers more than anyone I know. At the time he did the graveyard shift at a teen homeless shelter and worked extensively with a non-profit that helped young disabled people.

He makes the time to do all his creative projects in dance, writing and film.

He goes to the gym almost every day.

AND he was better with the ladies than the rest of us guys combined.

Did I mention he’s paraplegic?

If anything, on the surface anyway, one could argue it was a sweet deal to be in a wheelchair. For instance, no proper wheelchair seating sometimes worked in his favor because he always got to sit court side at the local college basketball games. We boys clamored to accompany him on game nights. Plus he ALWAYS got to sit shotgun since getting into the backseat of a car from a wheelchair is a pain. And one of the funny things about being in a chair is that people push you whether you want to be pushed or not. Indignities aside, who wouldn’t want other people to ferry you around like a prince on a palanquin.

jerry and wind

Overcoming Darkness

So I never got to see the tragic side of being shot by a cowardly stranger in the back at the age of 12 and not being able to walk again. I mean, that is heavy. To his credit, Jerry keeps it positive, never uses his condition as an excuse for anything. Never puts a guilt trip on us. Never burdens us with the demons and memories he has had to overcome. He was just one of the guys, whatever that means.

I like to think that I wouldn’t have minded being burdened a little. So it was a gift to read his memoir. You might think that reading about how a boy survived a bullet would be an unsettling, uncomfortable read. Or you might expect to be inspired by a heroic artist who learned to “make a martini out of a lemon.” You’ll be right on both accounts. But not because of the bullet.

The harrowing moments are the ones of the casual violence in his neighborhood, and the fear of a strung-out father he hardly knew. And later, hell was also encountered in the months of hospitalization and surgery. “Hospitals are your blandest, least profound nightmare.”

As for heroism, the bullet was also irrelevant. Jerry went on to do what he was destined to do before the bullet, which is to create, and connect with people.

I’m not gonna lie. The bullet mattered of course. The scene where he describes the moment he was shot was gut-wrenching to read. It’s not sensationalized. It’s told plainly, even Hemingway-esque.  But the tragic moments are balanced with hilarious ones, like the taxi-driver who asks him about his sex life.

Although it’s a quick read, I had to take a break midway to digest it. Maybe it’s because I know him and I had to process it with all that I know of him, piecing together memories. For instance, his strong aversion to the sight of blood now makes more sense. Or that many paraplegics have trouble regulating body temperature explains his low tolerance for very hot days. Or the complex relationship he has with his hard-working mother who visited him in the hospital almost daily. And a platoon of other details emerged from my memories.

But I don’t think you need to know him to appreciate the depths of this gem of a book. Just as a pure literary work, it’s inspired writing. The narrative conceit loosely follows the tradition of epistolary, or letter, writing. The memoir is written to “Marcus”, the imagined name of the shooter who had never been caught. And the chapters are interspersed with scenes from the screenplay of his life, fitting for a film maker. The prose itself alternates between the dense poetic layering of self-reflection with the fascinating events of his journey and the details of life as a paraplegic.

A lesser person could have remained traumatized, maybe hardened. But over the decades since the shooting, Jerry entered that darkness and emerged with a heart big enough to face the man who shot him and offer forgiveness and even thanks.

Despite the weight of the events, the memoir never dips into sentimentality or self-pity. Instead, the narrative maintains a fixed eye towards growing into the future and healing in the present. More importantly, Jerry draws us a map on one way out of the darkness that all of us faces at least once in our lives.

Dear Marcus is available at all the online bookstores. Here’s Amazon’s link. Honky by Dalton Conley  is a good complement to Dear Marcus. It’s also a memoir, by one of Jerry’s childhood friends, in which Jerry is featured prominently. You can also join the Dear Marcus Happening on Facebook.  And finally, I wrote an ode to him a couple years back on this blog teasing him about his stint on a popular soap opera.

January 24, 2010

The Seven Lucky Gods

The Seven Lucky Gods

It’s common for Japanese to go on pilgrimages at the beginning of the year to ensure good fortune for the rest of the year. This could mean just visiting a local shrine or temple, throwing a few coins (denominations in multiples of 5 are luckiest) into the slatted collection box and saying a little prayer. Or you can do one of the longer pilgrimages where several temples are visited.

The oldest one in Tokyo is the Yamate walk and it just so happened to be near my place so here’s my log of the journey.
There are 7 gods in 6 temples. At each temple you can get an official stamp or you can buy a little daruma, wooden figures. Inside the hollowed base of each figure is a fortune. There are categories of fortunes on each slip of paper, like health, marriage, career, etc. If you receive a fortune that is rated luckiest, you hold onto this slip and keep it as a lucky charm. If you receive any lower rated fortune, then you tie them on a tree or bamboo slats, or whatever the temple provides. These will later be burned by a priest.

ZuishojiRyusenji

The following are the temples, organized by the lucky god they curry favor from, pictured above.

Bishamonten, God of War (the angry looking one)

The first temple was Kakurinji, which honors Kato Kiyomasa. Kiyomasa is revered as a hero in Japan, but in Korea he is known as one of the worst and cruelest of the generals of Hideyoshi during their late 16th Century invasion of Korea. I figure this temple owes me a lot of luck based on past historical misdeeds.

Kakurinji

At the center of the courtyard there was a statue that you could rinse with water as an act of devotion. Otherwise, it was a modest, non-descript temple befitting a god with a spartan ethos.

Kakurinji

Hotei, God of Happiness, aka the Fat Buddha (the one holding the yellow fan)

Zuishoji was a larger temple, but also unspectacular, as temples go. It was the first Obaku Zen temple in Edo. The sole distinguishing feature was a rock garden even more sparse than other rock gardens, if that’s possible.

Zuishoji

And there were some interesting architectural elements like this bronze ornament. Also notice the carved cloud details on the beam, an uncharacteristically ostentatious display for a zen temple.

Zuishoji

Jurojin, God of Longevity, and Fukurokufu, God of Fortune (the yellow and green robed ones with beards)

These two gods are often paired together and are the Rosencrantz and Guildenstern of Japanese deities. No one seems to know which one is which.

Myoenji actually feels like a temple, with beautifully pruned trees and a lush garden. It was calm and there was a quiet reverential vibe about the place.

Myoenji

This ornate bridge, though small, is a unique element, not commonly seen in temples.

Myoenji

Daigoku, God of Wealth, Farmers and the Kitchen (the one with a red cap)

Daienji

Daienji was my favorite of the 6 temples. It’s a relatively small space, but it’s crammed with a funhouse full of statues and interesting objects. It’s got a stately pagoda, a mysterious stone wheel with hieroglyphic inscriptions, and stone etchings. Even the rain gutter catch was a lovely spidery work of art.

DaienjiDaienjiDaienjiDaienji

The centerpiece of the temple is a wall of saints to placate the spirits of the people who died during a great Edo fire, penance for being the flashpoint of the disaster.

Daienji

For those with ailments, you can buy some goldleaf and rub it onto this golden Buddha on the part of the body that ails you.  My back was feeling good so I passed this time.

Daienji

Benten, Goddess of Music and Fine Arts (the one in red)

Benten is the only female of the 7 lucky gods. In temples, she’s often surrounded by water, so Banryuji was the only temple with a water feature. This was also a very peaceful temple. There are paths that lead to grotto shrines for a more intimate spiritual moment.

BanryujiBanryuji

Ebisu, God of Commerce, Fisherman and Fortune (the one in white with a fish)

The last temple is Ryusenji, and it’s massive. The secondary temple building is bigger than any of the other temples’ main buildings. I imagine the temple is wealthy because it’s patron god, Ebisu, presides over commerce and trade. So businesses come here and give big donations. You could see groups of business men on official company visits.

Ryusenji

Scattered throughout the sprawling grounds are open shrines devoted to various deities. Also, in contrast to the other temples, Ryusenji is quite colorful.

RyusenjiRyusenji

It was also the only temple with its own bus stop. And appropriately, everything was done in bulk, like these incense sticks.

Ryusenji

An interesting footnote to the temple is a statue of Fudo Myou. It’s eyes were painted black by the founder of the temple and gives the neighborhood its name, Meguro, which means ‘black eye’. But this statue was deep in the temple and I couldn’t get a good look at it.

Ryusenji

The whole walk could easily be covered in 2 hours. Metropolis has a great map and addresses of the walk.

I don’t know if walking around to different places and collecting dolls bring you good luck. But it was a good time to meditate on the coming year. And I was lucky to spend time with T, walk around in sunny weather, and look at interesting temples. That’s all the good fortune I need.

January 14, 2010

Traveling Underwater to the Big Stone Buddha

Nihonji

A Temple of Giants
During the first week of the New Year, the in-laws and I went on a road trip to Chiba, which is just east of Tokyo. The highlight of the trip was a visit to Nihon-ji, which is a Soto Zen temple in the mountains that dates back to 725 AD. The first thing you notice while driving around this area is that it’s warmer than Tokyo. There are palm trees and flowers still in bloom. So even as we hiked around the mountain, it felt like we were just strolling through a city park.
NihonjiNihonji

The centerpiece of the temple is a Great Buddha carved from the mountainside. This particular Buddha oversees medicine and health. It’s twice as big as the more famous Great Buddhas in Kamakura and Nara.

Near the Buddha is a small statuette of Kannon surrounded by piles of little Jizo. I’m not sure what the story here is. It was quite a sight. Larger Jizo can be found all over Japan in the randomest places, usually by roadsides where small children had died, placed there to placate their spirits.

NihonjiNihonji

Next to all these little Jizo is a sapling of a bodhi tree given by the Indian government. It’s not just any tree though. It’s from a cutting of a branch of the original bodhi tree that the Buddha sat under and reached enlightenment. I couldn’t take a good picture of it though since it was covered with netting and some security alarm system I’m sure.

Nihonji

As you hike up the steep steps of the mountainside there are 500 Arhat (or “Rakan” in Japanese). They are the saints of Buddhism. Some are faceless from erosion and others have kept their stern expressions.
NihonjiNihonji

At the top of the mountain are several viewpoints looking out into the Pacific.  Hidden away just under the jagged ridge is an enormous Kannon carved from the rock. Though it looks like a cool ancient work of art, it was actually only chiseled out 90 years ago. Still, this was probably my favorite part of the temple.

Nihonji
Nihonji

You’re welcome to check out the rest of the pictures of the temple on Flickr.

The Aqualine
Getting to the temple was interesting in and of itself. We drove underwater through a tunnel highway that linked western Tokyo and Yokohama with the southern end of the Chiba Peninsula. The entrance from the Tokyo end had a curious glass pyramid above. The engineering of this tunnel is almost as awe-inspiring as the figures of stone at the temple. I was especially impressed with the ten-story sail-like vents that aired out the miles of tunnel.

Aqualine

Midway through the tunnel we emerged into a glorified pit stop with floors of shops and restaurants teeming with tourists. It reminded me a little of the visiting hordes that visit the Golden Gate Bridge on the weekends.

Best thing about this place was the super cheap and super fresh sushi bar. And the most interesting thing was the giant drill that was used to bore the tunnel. It was displayed like a gargantuan piece of modern art.  Here’s the slide show for those pictures.

January 10, 2010

Avatar and the Films of Hayao Miyazaki

avatar

It’s best to approach Avatar as if it was the beautiful awe-inspiring result of a megalomaniacal potentate, like the Taj Mahal or the Forbidden Palace or the Bellagio Hotel. The irony of a $300 million dollar project (with tie-ins to produce countless plastic figures with McDonald’s) that celebrates a nature-loving society prevailing over a greedy corporate one hasn’t been lost on some of my more perceptive friends (Menton 2009).

The environmental impact of such a colossal undertaking undermines the message of the movie. And that doesn’t figure in the inevitable explosion of materialistic consumption of video games, action figures, key chains, and probably a new wave of consumers hungry for 3D TVs.

Yet what can I say. You have to watch this movie. And you have to watch it on an IMAX screen in 3D. For the same reason people visit the Pyramids or Angkor Wat. Not only is it a fascinating work of art, it’s a game changer. It will probably change the way blockbusters will be made.

On a more analog scale, I felt the same way with James Cameron’s earlier epic, Titanic. Like Titanic, I went in ready to critically watch the movie like I always do and I was wary of the hype. By the end I was so absorbed in the film that I entered that rare cinematic nirvana of total escapism, of being lost in the story.

The basic plot isn’t particularly original. It’s the old story of the evil tag team of a corporation and the military attacking a noble tribe with their good scientist allies. It’s simplistic and idealized but it’s also compellingly archetypal. And there are enough twists and variations on the formula to be thoroughly engrossing.

What makes the movie really compelling, however, is the richly detailed imagined world, Pandora. The animals and plants were a mesmerizing safari. The wonder of constructing a totally new world reminded another one of my perceptive friends of the works of Hayao Miyazaki (Shibayama 2009). So I dedicate the rest of this review to pointing out similarities between Avatar and the movies of Miyazaki.

Princess Mononoke
The premise of industry versus nature was brilliantly treated in my favorite Miyazaki movie, Princess Mononoke.
In it, one of the main characters is a strong and fierce young warrior woman who battles a gun manufacturer who has denuded the forests. Strong young women and girls are a theme throughout Miyazaki films.
avatarprincess mononoke

The other main character is a courageous young man, an outsider who helps mediate between the two worlds.

avatarprincess mononoke

I also noticed that the eyes of the native Pandorans, the Na’vi, were eerily like the eyes of the Forest God in Princess Mononoke.
avatarprincess mononoke

Another similarity is that both movies had sacred groves in which people were healed in the same way, with tendrils from the trees attaching themselves to the sick person.

Laputa, Castle in the Sky

In Miyazaki’s first major film, Laputa, a floating island features prominently in the film. Avatar had an archipelago of them. A massive tree is the central feature of Laputa’s island, just as a gargantuan tree houses a whole tribe in Avatar.

laputaavatar

Laputa also has a young boy and girl as the heroes of the story, bravely fighting against a militaristic society employing giant robots. Large robots also figure prominently in Avatar, except these are a lot like the robots in the Matrix series, with a human pilot inside.

Nausicaa of the Valley of the Wind

Flight is a major theme of Miyazaki films, but his creations tend more towards the mechanical— fantastic airplanes, dirigibles and gliders like the one the eponymous heroine in Nausicaa uses. In Avatar, the Na’vi fly on something much cooler, dragon-like beings.

nausicaa

Also in Nausicaa, the young courageous heroine helps her tribe of wind farmers fight against a ruthless militaristic occupying government.

Is it too obvious to point out the blueness of her outfit strangely similar to the hue of the Na’vi?

One of the more interesting notions in Avatar is that all the planet’s inhabitants are plugged in to a central planetary consciousness. They can literally plug themselves in, tendril to tendril, as if connecting to the internet, and access all the memories of past generations. I noticed a similar plugging in to a communal consciousness of the messianic Nausicaa, who is able to communicate and placate the creatures of her world.

nausicaa

It’s probably no accident that there are so many ties between the two directors. Any serious filmmaker would be familiar with Miyazaki’s works, and I’m confident Cameron was influenced and inspired by him. I’m wholeheartedly for good art begetting good art so I’m happy to see Miyazaki’s influence in as many films as possible.

January 2, 2010

La Zona, Best Suburban Mall Ever

La Zona, Kawasaki

I recently went to watch Avatar on an IMAX screen in 3-D, but I won’t be reviewing that movie in this post. That’ll come later. Instead, I want to share some pictures I took of LaZona, the shopping center the theaters were in. It’s the second highest earning shopping mall in Japan. Only Narita Airport beats it. That’s pretty remarkable, since it’s in the suburbs, in Kawasaki city.  Although, Kawasaki is a pretty big city in its own right.

I thought that more famous shopping centers in Tokyo, like the soulless and labyrinthine Roppongi Hills or the subterranean Omotesando Hills would be up there. But it’s a suburban mall that beats them both.

La Zona, Kawasaki

I have to admit that I was impressed with the design. The central feature is an outdoor oval plaza with a stage, water features and funky mood lighting. The circulation patterns are intuitive and it was easy to view at one glance all the shops and restaurants around the three floors of the rotunda. There was a more conventional layout for the indoor part of the mall. It was family friendly and spacious.

La Zona, Kawasaki

Despite being in the suburbs, the restaurants were as stylish and hip as any in central Tokyo. We had dinner at this place called California Pizza Kitchen. The decor was very authentic, reminding me of the West Coast. Even the pizzas had the fluffy lightly crispy crust that Left Coasters love, without any of the locally adapted nonsense like the copious mayonnaise that Japanese slather on their pies. Also, I appreciated the free refills of their fruit lemonades served in big glass tumblers. Americans like to hydrate.

A movie on IMAX and some home cooking. I’m definitely going back.