O Christmas Tree!

I used to have mixed feelings about Christmas trees. On the one hand, I felt that in an increasingly deforested world, it wasn’t right to grow plantations of trees only to cut them down for a few weeks of decorations. On the other hand, having an adorned tree in your living room with gifts underneath is a very happy thing to behold.

The solution for most is to either have a plastic tree, which is problematic unto itself, or have a live potted tree, a fantastic idea. Or as I like to do, just go and visit all the Christmas trees around town.

There are plenty of the traditional pine and fir Christmas trees. Moka loves them and this one is her favorite. She runs up to it every time we pass by and yanks at the ornaments.

Mitsukoshi tree

These next two are made of everyday objects. One is made of magazines and newspapers and the other is made of cork. There should be a movement to make Christmas trees out of recycled materials, like CDs, rags and euro bills.

paper tree

cork tree

My personal favorite was a brilliantly lit tree in Aqua City, an indoor mall by Tokyo Bay. The colors constantly changed and at regular intervals there was a light show accompanied by a lot of dramatic music. A little over the top but magical.

Aqua City christmas tree

Aqua City christmas tree

Aqua City christmas tree

But nothing beats the trees, alive and festive, in nature itself. Usually, the leaves change colors in late November here in Tokyo, but this year was very late. The colors have been peaking in the last week or so just in time for Christmas.

May your Christmas and the New Year be equally colorful and vibrant.

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Ode to Persimmons

autumn persimmon leaves

A Persimmon Biography

The last of the fall leaves on my persimmon tree dropped. This is what it looked like when it was in all its autumnal glory. I bought it two years ago at the neighborhood nursery. It was a skinny sapling of twigs with three persimmons hanging from the branches.

I left the fruit on the tree because it’s just a pretty sight. But once the fruit became ripe, every morning for a week, three species of birds fought over the spoils. There was a bullying crow, a pair of loud plovers or some kind of whitish bird, and a smattering of tiny songbirds that pecked at what it could from the ground. You’d think that it would be beautiful to have birds eat from your persimmon tree. But in fact it sounded like an avian riot at a heavy metal concert. It was vicious. And the balcony was a mess after each feasting.

The year after, the tree was afflicted by some white wormy scales. It didn’t have a chance. The leaves barely matured. I tried to remove them by hand, squeezing them, which left my fingers stained with a deep purple. I later found out that they were actually the insects cultivated in Mexico to produce indigo dye. Near one of the universities where I teach, there was a grove of persimmons, all afflicted by the same pest. So it must have been a nation-wide epidemic. In grocery stores, persimmons are a lot more plentiful and cheaper this year than last year.

This year, the foliage spread out nicely. So nice that somehow caterpillars found their way up to my 8th floor balcony and began eating the juicy leaves. I didn’t mind them. They were easy to remove. Unfortunately, the tree didn’t fruit this year. I was hoping that it would cross-pollinate with the big persimmon tree near the base of my apartment building. But the tiny white flowers never opened properly.

Persimmophilia

I have a special relationship with persimmon trees. I planted several in my yard at my old house. They were the fastest growing trees in my orchard. In the spring, the leaves are delicately pale green. In the summer, it provides shade with pleasing broad dark green leaves. In the autumn, the leaves turn a deep warm orange as you can see above. Then one morning in early winter, the leaves suddenly drop all at once, exposing bright orange-colored persimmons dangling like Christmas ornaments.

My dad told me how in post-war Korea, he had vivid memories of eating persimmons from the neighborhood trees when he was a kid. I never could visualize that image until I came to Japan, where persimmon trees are as common as apple trees in the Northwest. And they are huge. A mature persimmon, filled with hundreds of little round suns is a sight to behold.

Soon after I wrote this post my dad sent me this email:

We had around 10 persimmon trees in the yard. And there was a little tiny stream that flowed right next to the house. They produced the biggest persimmons in the village. It was your grandmother’s parent’s home. There was a persimmon tree near the well which was as old as I was. It was planted by your great grandfather on the occasion of the birth of his first grandson, me. I was born in that house, Aunt Jung Hee, and Uncle No Kyung, too.
Jung Hee and No Kyung couldn’t find the old house since the city was developed and the various city plan changes changed everything. Well, it was fifty/sixty years ago.
Your writing on persimmons reminded me of those good days. I was a shy kid , but a good story teller.
Love, dad

The Peaceful Giants: The Windiad no. 8

among giants

The Laestrygonians (say that 5 times)
In the Odyssey, Odysseus and his men run into giants twice. The first time they stop off on the island of the Cyclops, and this story is always referred to. The lesser told tale is of the Laestrygonians. In the story, most of his ships sail into a harbor that was surrounded by tall cliffs, thus providing a unique protected area. Among his many phobias Odysseus had a fear of enclosed places. It could be called claustrophobia, except the harbor was quite large. A whole fleet could fit in there. It was more the fact that Odysseus had an uncanny ability to survive.

In the epic, his men are portrayed as over-eager and greedy. And once again they hastened to get off their boats and take a look around, devouring what provisions they could find. The truth was that Odysseus and his officers ate well and slept on mattresses that were dried daily.

The rest of the crew made do with moldy bread, rancid meat, and brackish water. Also, as I mentioned earlier, they were goat herders and farmers, who never could get used to sleeping on deck in rolling waters. Any excuse to feel the earth beneath their feet, get some fresh food and water, and they took it. Yes, the cliffs were a a little intimidating, but they craved land.

It was their undoing since a tribe of giants lived on the island and waited for such opportunities, to throw rocks off the cliffs and target ships for sport and spear men for food.

Odysseus, his ship safely outside the harbor, once again sailed off unscathed, out of the shadows of those giants and the cries of his men.

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Redwoods, the Silent Giants

The only giants we faced were the awesome giant forests of redwoods. Redwoods are the tallest trees in the world. Their trunks grow so massive that tunnels have been carved through them so roads could pass and thus attract tourists. Groves of trees thousands of years old still exist.

The secret of their success is the spongy bark that repels fire because of the moisture it holds and wards off pests because of the tannins it produces. Less than 5% of the original old-growth forests still exist. The rest of the redwood range which only grows along the Northern California coast, is filled with younger trees. Not so surprisingly, greedy logging companies still want to cut the rest of the these down but most are now protected.

We spent several nights in Crescent City, a ramshackle coastal city, near many state parks and national forests and parks. The biggest trees we saw had massive trunks that could easily encompass our Tokyo apartment. The best was a trail called Boy Scout Trail in the Jedediah Smith State Park. There were almost no people and you could fully appreciate the eerie silence, another advantage of the spongy bark which act as sound proofing.

In the groves of these giants, you can feel the fairies, sprites and other wood spirits watching you through the fog.

Ta Phrom: Khmer Notes no. 7 /Meditating Wind no. 50

Meditating Wind no. 50

Of all the interesting temples in the Angkor area, Ta Phrom is the coolest. Known for the giant trees that have grown out of the stone ruins, it’s probably one of the most photographed as well. It was built by the prolific Khmer king Jayavarman VII as a Buddhist monastery and university. Since it has been largely left as it was found, with the trees intact, it really does feel like a newly discovered ruins.

At its peak, 80,000 people lived in and around the temple. When we visited, there were just a handful of tourists, lost and wandering around in awe. Because of its ‘natural’ state, there were upturned blocks of stone and protruding tree roots to trip you up. It also kept many tourists out of the maze-like central enclosures. At one point we couldn’t find our way out. But I wouldn’t have minded staying there all day, among the doorways opening into nowhere, and the trees growing high into nothingness.

Meiji Jingu Shrine’s Best Kept Secret

fall stream

Meiji Jingu is one of the largest shrines in Japan. It can be accessed easily from the bustling Harajuku Station. And indeed it receives many visitors, especially from overseas. Because it’s about a 15 minute walk from my work, I often go there when I need to get away from the dense activity of Tokyo. The shrine is mostly a large forest comprised of over 100,000 trees donated from around Japan. The planning and planting of the forest deserves a post all its own. Continue reading