Blown Back to Ashland: the Windiad no. 4

praise

The Wind Bag
Aeolus is the wind god, or he controlled the winds anyway. In exchange for stories from Odysseus, Aeolus gave a bag of winds that would help Odysseus find his way back home. Odysseus told mostly stories from the Trojan War, with other tales of fishing trips and crazy relatives in between to pad the mostly uneventful decade of half-heartedly laying siege to Troy. Aeolus wasn’t really into the stories, but he liked to listen to people talk while he cracked open a beer.

The bag of winds was really big, made of blue silk and lined with the feathers of doves and peacocks. Odysseus’s men thought it was treasure that he didn’t want to share, so they opened the bag to see what was inside. The winds were released and the ships got blown back to where they started.

One place I find myself blown back to often is Ashland.

Shakespeareville
Ashland and I go back a long way. Back when I was in high school I first visited my buddy Kevin who had just moved here. For a Southern California boy, my image of Oregon was of log cabins, rednecks, bears and forests. They all certainly exist here, but I also found a town full of artists, musicians, dancers, hippies, America’s largest Shakespeare festival, fresh air, rivers, and a sky full of stars I’d never seen through the haze of Los Angeles.

It was a revelatory vacation. I got to see an alternative to the materialistic, status-loving, car culture of Hollywood. And I questioned everything about the superficial life that I felt I’d been living. Once I returned to LA, I went through more than a decade of navel-gazing, studying religions and philosophies, to try to break through the veil of the illusory, physical world. I read a lot. And pondered over Sartre, Nietzsche, Chuang Tzu, Krishnamurti, Alan Watts, bell hooks and many others.

That was a heavy time. Since them I’ve discovered the meaning of life and I’d like to share it with you. Just send $49.99 to: Universal Secrets, P.O. Box 13, Lagos, Nigeria.

lithia fountain detail

Ramana
If you really want answers to the big questions you want to consult with my long-time friend, Ramana.

We met with her and her husband, Stacy, at a Japanese restaurant called Kobe. Surprisingly the sushi was outstanding, but very California. The delicious rolls had stereotypical names like, Red Dragon and Kamikaze, with sushi ingredients never seen in Japan like avocado and sun-dried tomatoes. When we asked for more shoyu, the waitress had a perplexed look on her face until we said, soy sauce.

Ramana is a dedicated Soto Zen practitioner. She’s the seer in my life story. She’s a combination of spacey mystic and grounded explorer. At various times in her life, she went to a prestigious art school to study film, wandered in the desert as an apprentice shaman, collected lovers in Europe like Starbuck’s city mugs, lived in Buddhist monasteries, wrote erotica.

During one of the many times I’ve crashed at her place, she kept parakeets and lived in a charming house with a sloping floor. Another time she lived in an even cuter house behind the bakery where she worked. Now as a mother and wife, she still has a priestly vibe to her, and her house is like a redwood cathedral.

In short, she’s led a fascinating life. And she’s filled my bag of winds many times over.

Bloomsbury Café
Cafes are the best places to find meaning. One café I get blown back to often, and so I guess is my favorite Ashland café, is Bloomsbury Café. It’s upstairs from the Bloomsbury bookstore. They have a large shady outdoor seating area, a cozy interior with lots of stuffed chairs. Here, I suggest reading children’s books with dark themes, after meeting a friend you haven’t seen since you were a teenager.

sycamore bark

Lithia Park
Nature is also a good place to seek answers. One of my favorite parks in the world is Lithia Park. It’s enormous, stretching for miles it seems, along Lithia Creek, which has natural lithium. Lithium water tastes like rotten eggs and the element is used to treat schizophrenia. So it’s an excellent place to stop hearing the voices in your head. The park has a pond with a pair of swans (though I didn’t see them this time around), a sycamore tree grove, a crumbling white fountain, an amphitheatre, tennis courts, roses, deer, and at one time had monkeys.

Yup, I love Ashland.

On the Trail of the Kichijoji Wildcat

soap flowers

One of the most popular neighborhoods in Tokyo is Kichijoji. I’d only passed by the station on my way to teach at Asia University once a week, but never had the time to stop off. Much of the area is like any other Tokyo neighborhood with the usual shops and restaurants, but there is one particularly charming street that leads to Inokashira Park. This street has a village feel with a mix of cozy cafes and import stores crammed with folk crafts from around the world. It’s a short street but I loved walking around there.

inokashira bridge

The park is one of the better parks of Tokyo. It encompasses a zoo, the Ghibli Museum, a shrine, a casual pan-Asian restaurant, and a river with giant swan-shaped pedal boats for rent, reputed to be bad luck for couples who ride them together. The park has a local feel, with paths leading out of the park and ambling into quiet streets. It reminded me of Lithia Park in Ashland, Oregon, with its long creek, and its vitality.

I visited the Inokashira Park Zoo, which was free with the Grutt Pass. I liked that the zoo focused on native Japanese species instead of stocking itself with exotic species from further afield. On the other hand, I found it comical that many species were tagged with “Japanese”. Like the common squirrel was tagged as the “Japanese squirrel”, or the common raccoon as the “Japanese raccoon”. They were presented as subspecies, but probably should have been labeled as breeds.

I was really excited to see the Amur leopard cat. The wild cat ranges throughout East Siberia and Korea but was tagged in some places as the “Tsushima leopard cat”. Tsushima is a small Japanese island lying between Korea and Japan. I guess it could be a subspecies, except that they both share the same scientific name, Felis bengalenses euptilura. There were so many similar instances of species revisionism that I imagined some drunk nationalistic biologist giggling all night as he “discovered” new subspecies for the glory of the emperor.

The most interesting part of the zoo is the aquarium which featured waterfowl as well as insects and reptiles, including one really big cane toad from the Americas. It was the size of one of the Amur cats, but thankfully wasn’t labeled as the “Japanese giant toad”.

introspective swan

Creative taxonomy aside, I actually enjoyed the casual atmosphere of the zoo. It was more of a park for kids that happened to have animals. Still, like all zoos, it was depressing at times to see the animals pacing nervously in their cages. Watching the 50 year old Asian elephant, Hanako, was especially sad, as she rocked back and forth, gazing off into the distance, dreaming of a faint childhood in Thai forests.

Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.

“I believe that unarmed truth and unconditional love will have the final word in reality. That is why right, temporarily defeated, is stronger than evil triumphant.” -Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.

mlk

When I was a teenager, navigating the indignities of racism in America and trying to articulate the frustrations of my experiences, I watched a great documentary series about the American Civil Rights Movement on PBS (the U.S.’s underfunded version of NHK or BBC). I learned about the courageous heroes and heroines that struggled and prevailed against the oppression of segregation, discrimination, and violence. Preeminent among them of course is Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. January 15th was Dr. King’s birthday and it’s celebrated as a national holiday in the U.S. That the holiday even exists is remarkable, since during his life he was vilified by the government, and mercilessly harassed by the FBI. Continue reading

Meiji Jingu Shrine’s Best Kept Secret

fall stream

Meiji Jingu is one of the largest shrines in Japan. It can be accessed easily from the bustling Harajuku Station. And indeed it receives many visitors, especially from overseas. Because it’s about a 15 minute walk from my work, I often go there when I need to get away from the dense activity of Tokyo. The shrine is mostly a large forest comprised of over 100,000 trees donated from around Japan. The planning and planting of the forest deserves a post all its own. Continue reading

Autumn Leaves

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It’s here at last. Autumn. Hard to believe I know. Actually, quite suddenly last week, around Wednesday or Thursday, all the leaves just decided to flare up into fall flames. In other temperate parts of the world, the leaves turn around late September to late mid October. In Tokyo, it usually happens in November. This year was late.

I made it a point to go to as many parks and other places with great views of autumn leaves. I love the view of Meiji St. from my gym in Shibuya, walking down gingko-lined Platinum Ave. in Shirokane, and strolling through one of the best parks and gardens in Tokyo: Shinjukukyoen. Better known for the cherry blossoms in the spring, Shinjukuyoen is an even better place to visit in the fall because there are so few people there. This is probably because it’s a good 15 minute walk from Shinjuku Station and it charges 200 yen. Formerly one of the shogun’s hunting grounds, it’s now one of the best places in Tokyo to get away from the crowds. I’ve added the pictures in my flickr account and you can check them out here.

The picture I included above is the full picture of the new header for the blog. As I visit more parks I’ll post more pictures.