Hakone Glass Forest

crystal tree

The Hakone Glass Forest is a large collection of Venetian glass, with galleries of contemporary glass artists, in a setting trying to recreate an Italian lake villa.

The central features are a curtain of glittering crystals that sandwich a bridge over an artificial pond, and a Christmas tree of crystals.

corridoioItalian musicians

The Venetian Glass Museum is impressive, spanning the full range of glass artistry form fine crystal to fimo, many from the times of the Doges. Inside the museum there are regular performances by a playful violinist and a stoic accordionist, both Italian. Check out pictures of the beautiful works here.

Later when we had coffee and croissants at the café (coffee was excellent by the way), the musicians joined two more Italians, a keyboradist, and a slick friendly lounge singer for more music. It was great. It really added some authenticity to the faux Italian atmosphere.

The galleries of contemporary artists extends the education in glass art to its contemporary interpretations. In particular I really enjoyed the cerebral abstractions of Livio Seguso, and the lush colorful organic forms of Dale Chihuly.

embryoanemones

The gift shop is pretty sizeable and there are many displays of artisans from around the world for sale. It was an art gallery all its own.

The Glass Forest is a compact place but there are enough nooks and crannies, galleries and shops to fill an afternoon. And the education in glass traditions was particularly edifying in this romantic ambiance.

decanter

For more info, here’s the official website’s information page, only in Japanese.  Photo at the top by T. Funada.

The Hakone Open-Air Museum

reclining visitor

The Hakone Open Air Museum is a large park filled with an excellent collection of sculpture, as well as several indoor galleries. It’s my favorite museum in Japan because of its large collection of Henry Moore sculptures. And because there aren’t too many things in life better than appreciating art outdoors.

The museum is actually a collection of smaller museums and galleries, as well as the various outdoor areas dotted with installations.

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  • The Art Hall has a really nice collection of new acquisitions in a pleasing, open, naturally lit space.
  • There’s a gallery dedicated to Henry Moore to give you some background on his philosophy and career.
  • The Picture Gallery had a display of Japanese artists influenced by Rodin, with some nice pieces by Giacommetti and other early 20th Century Italian sculptors.
  • For families kids can crawl around in or explore many different sculptures. There’s the indoor castle of nets, an outdoor “playground”, a glass mosaic tower called the Symphonic Sculpture, and a hive-like burrow of see-through plastic hexagons.
  • The biggest gallery is the Picasso collection, with mostly a sizeable collection of his ceramics, which he did mostly at the end of his life. It’s a nice change of pace from the over-exposure of his paintings from his Blue and Cubist Periods. The genius of the man is so broad, he deserves to be admired through all of his chosen media. I noticed he had recurring themes of fish, satyrs and his wife, perhaps his three main concerns as an aging man: food, wine and women?
  • Also, be sure to get your feet wet in the warm outdoor footbath.

the net castlefootbath

A Brief Rant on the Terrible Coffee of Museum Cafés
The bookstore café has interesting mid-century décor, but the coffee is the usual mediocre overpriced cup of weak mud. I wonder when museums will realize that an afternoon of great art is sullied by bad coffee.

I don’t mind the over-priced part because the cafés are usually quite stylish or artistic. Just make the coffee good. It doesn’t have to be great, just make it decent. I’ll even take anonymous and un-noteworthy.

Don’t make me look down and notice an inferior beverage. Also, for crying out loud, for $4-8, get it out of the cheap paper cup, and put it into a mug or glass cup. And hey, why not throw in a freaking chocolate square or a candied almond!?

A Post-Rant Conclusion
Bad coffee aside, I love the Hakone Open-Air Museum. It’s the best bang for your buck in terms of an art experience, with varied galleries, lots of interactive opportunities, all in a dramatic outdoor space.

Frida’s Last Painting: The Windiad no. 10

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Circe
Odysseus was quite the player. Throughout his travels around the Aegean Sea, he was seduced by a number of divine women, or so he claims. After all, he was married so he’d have to claim that his acts of infidelity were coerced.

Yet there was one women with whom he stayed willingly and couldn’t cop any excuses about. That was Circe, another daughter of the sun god, Helios, and an oceanid, a kind of sea nymph. Her specialty was turning men into animals by tricking them into taking potions. As usual, Odysseus was able to avoid this fate, but his men were, again, less fortunate. They ate her food and turned into pigs. Odysseus stayed for a year, long after talking her into turning his men back into humans. She even gave birth to their son, then eventually gave him advice and directions on how to get back home.

Circe is often described as treacherous, but really she was just doing what all the other gods did, which was screw around with mortals for their entertainment. Otherwise, she was a generous hostess. Circe was Odysseus’ final dignified send-off back home. She was delicious bad luck, and slightly rancid good luck all rolled into one. And that’s really the best way to describe the end of my trip through the US.

Receding into the Background

The last two days in America were a blur of bad luck. We went down to Santa Cruz to visit my friend, Natascha, and hang out at my sister’s home. On the drive down we got a call that Natascha was in the emergency room.

The next day we decided to go to the Frida Kahlo exhibit at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art. We were pleased as plums to get a sweet parking space right across the street from the museum, only to come out later to find that the car had been towed. We had to pay for the tow, the processing charge, as well as the parking ticket. You’d think that with all the money they make from parking violations, the great city of San Francisco could fix some of its pothole infested roads.

Later that evening we realized that we had lost one of our cameras and most of our pictures from the redwoods, as well as some sweet photos of us with some Stormtroopers and the Incredible Hulk. Dang.

It was a hell of a way to end the trip and I was truly bummed out. On the other hand, the small morsels of delightful moments tipped it all back into something good.

For instance, we got to spend more time with Natascha than we would have if we just had lunch. We hung out in the emergency room as we waited for test results, while a steady stream of cheerful nurses and down-to-earth doctors came and went. And finally, the tests showed that there was nothing life-threatening. As one of my oldest and dearest friends, this was one of my most favorite reunions.

Then while in Santa Cruz we got to spend more time with my sister’s family, going to my nephew’s swim lesson, eating at a swanky Mexican restaurant in a historic ballroom, perusing through a bookstore (I actually just stood in one place the whole time reading a book about how nature would take back the world after humans disappeared), and then watching a late night movie (the gloomy Dark Knight).

Then T, my sister, and I got to spend quality time in SFMOMA, looking at the works of Frida Kahlo. She was like Circe that kept us longer than we had planned and which led to the car being towed. She was also a reminder that her life was much more tragic than a towed car could ever be, and still she came out of it fabulously creative and radiant.

And if these last days were a Frida Kahlo painting, and I were an art critic, the symbolism would be interpreted thus:

The emergency room is like a healing process that requires connecting with friends.
The art exhibit narrates that every journey must end with art.
The towed car represents the end of car culture.
The lost camera challenges the viewer to create memories without photographs.
The bad luck seems to fade into the background, while the foreground is punctuated with bright colors and unexpected shapes.

laughter

World Press Photo 08

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The Exhibit
Finalists of the World Press Photo 08 awards can be seen at the Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography in Ebisu. While a journalistic award, the judges make it a point to explain that the artists are chosen based on the artistic merits of the photographs and not as representative of important issues. Nevertheless, there are plenty of important issues touched upon.

For instance, the 1st prize series captures activities of US and Afghan soldiers in a backdrop of stunning forested mountains, as well as blurred intimate moments of anguish. There’s a Kurdish women’s rebel/resistance military camp. And the sad stories of violent elections in the Democratic Republic of Congo and Kenya.

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Aliens Invade Tokyo

floating leaves and glass

The Miraikan, or the National Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation, is located in the Odaiba area of Tokyo. The building is an awesome cavernous glass structure in an ellipsoid shape. It’s filled with light and dangling from the ceiling are large glittering leaves. It reminded me of the International Forum in Yurakucho, another all-glass oval-shaped stunner. But I like the Miraikan better because there is a more intimate feel, with all the floors connected visually.

globe series

The centerpiece of the museum and the building is an enormous electronic globe. The image of the world rotates in real time and it displays things like the current weather and global temperature. You can view it from below in lounge chairs or you can look at it from any of the museums floors. It was mesmerizing and beautiful.

Some highlights of the museum include a real space capsule and a submersible. The most informative display was the picture, name and nationality of every human, dog and monkey who has ventured into space, grouped by year. It was fascinating to see how the Soviets and Americans dominated space travel for a few decades, but now it’s becoming truly multinational, with more Chinese, Japanese and Europeans leaving the atmosphere.

While the permanent exhibits are worth a visit, you shouldn’t miss the special exhibit, The Science of Aliens. The exhibit is separated into four zones. The first one looks at aliens in the public imagination and popular media. For instance, there is an Ewok costume and a scale model of an alien from the Alien movie series. It traces the way we have projected our fears and hopes on imagined extraterrestrials.

The second zone looks at the strange life forms that are on our planet, showing us that an alien could be nothing that we can even imagine. There were samples of life on earth that exist in the most extreme environments, from super hot to bone-crunchingly cold to oxygen-depleted. That was eye-opening.

The third zone took us on a tour of attempts at communication with aliens. It had the complete recordings of Voyager, which we could hear samples of. And the fourth zone had an interactive imagined alien ecosystem. Overall, a comprehensive and totally cool exhibit.

Both the permanent exhibit and the special exhibit are reasonably priced at 500 yen and 350 yen, respectively. It’s a great place for kids. And if you have time you can visit the nearby Maritime Museum, walk around the surrounding park, and shop and dine in the Venus Fort, an indoor mall complex that mimics the interior of a Las Vegas casino. T and I went to the 4 storey game center and went bowling and sang karaoke, sending messages of our own to other worlds.

Photo credits: second photo by T. Funada