The Tokyo Toilet

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Japan is known for its high-tech innovations. The Washlet comes to mind. It warms the toilet seat, self-cleans, and it’s primary function is to give you a hands-free bum cleaning, with sprays of water, then a dryer. Some of the advanced ones play soothing music and analyzes your stool.  The control panel for this thing sometimes resembles a control panel on Star Trek.

After five years in japan I’ve never taken advantage of the Washlet. I’m old school, preferring good old toilet paper and a high fiber diet. It reminds me of the study in the US which found that recent immigrants don’t use the automatic dishwasher, instead using the appliance as an expensive dish rack.

I can’t fathom using jet sprays that emanate from the toilet, even though I know it’s just as sanitary as toilet paper.

In Japan it’s all about making life convenient and this idea manifests in numerous designs that smoothes every day processes. These are my favorite low tech things I like about the Tokyo Toilet. Continue reading

The Seven Lucky Gods

The Seven Lucky Gods

It’s common for Japanese to go on pilgrimages at the beginning of the year to ensure good fortune for the rest of the year. This could mean just visiting a local shrine or temple, throwing a few coins (denominations in multiples of 5 are luckiest) into the slatted collection box and saying a little prayer. Or you can do one of the longer pilgrimages where several temples are visited.

The oldest one in Tokyo is the Yamate walk and it just so happened to be near my place so here’s my log of the journey. Continue reading

The Anpanman Mobile

Anpanman mobile

Was this Batman’s batmobile before he was Batman?  I saw this parked on the sidewalk and had to take some pictures.

The owner is clearly a big fan of Anpanman, the most popular anime character among Japanese kids. Anpanman is everywhere in Tokyo, but I’d never seen a fully tricked out Anpanmobile before. Maybe I just didn’t pay attention before my friend Amritha visited and opened my eyes to the utter coolness of Sweet Bean Bread Man (the literal translation).

Anpanman mobile Some fun facts:

• The character was conceived by Takashi Yanase when he was a starving soldier during World War II, fantasizing about the tasty snack.

• In the story, Anpanman was created when Jam Ojisan, a baker, had his batch of sweet bean pastries struck by a falling star.

• Throughout his adventures, when Anpanman gets injured, new heads are baked by Jam Ojisan.

• Anpanman’s nemesis is Baikinman, or Germ Man. His fatal weakness is soap.

• There have been over 1,700 characters in the Anpanman series. Most of them are some form of food.

• Over 50 million copies of Anpanman books have been sold.

Batman may have a more powerful vehicle, but in terms of coolness, it can’t touch this Anpanman bike.

Raising Cane on the Train

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This post is about my experiences using a walking stick, public reactions to it, and who offers me their seat on trains.

My back and leg pain has improved a lot over the last few months. I’m far from 100%, but at least I’m not immobilized with pain. I can even put on my socks with minimal fuss, although still too slowly for my taste. And even though I don’t need it most of the time, I still take my ever so stylish cane when I’m out and about.

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The Primal Stick
A cane is really just a stick with an ergonomic handle. Mine can fold like a camping tent pole. It’s pretty cool actually. I’ve always liked sticks since I was a kid. When I went hiking I’d be on the lookout for a nice walking stick. And then I’d bring it back home.

I usually had a small collection. My bedroom always had at least some sort of staff by the door. I figured if Gandalf had one around at all times, it must be a good idea. Perhaps it’s a primal urge from thousands of years of humans using a stick or projectile for hunting, protection, or war.

I don’t have any staves around now, but I do have a bokken, or a wooden sword, by my bedside, just in case an intruder comes in to my apartment. I feel more secure with that there.

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A stick carried in public is an unusual sight. And it elicits all kinds of reactions. Usually, the reaction is wariness because of its long association as a weapon. However, young people in Japan can often be seen with wooden swords, staves, and bow and arrows, for their club activities. And no one raises an eyebrow. The elderly, with their walking sticks, never attract attention.  But a cane carried by a youngish person is something else entirely.

The Gawkers
The main reaction I get in public is staring. The Japanese are normally a very polite subtle people. Even when I first got to Japan with my mohawk, earrings, sunglasses and tank top, people did their best to not stare. But with a cane, people just look me up and down. And even after I stare back, they keep looking.

T theorizes that it’s because I’m a relatively young, healthy looking guy, and that the cane seems incongruous. But that doesn’t explain why they continue staring even after my own stare turns into a glare.

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Priority Seating
The second kind of reaction I get is people offering their seat to me on trains and subways. Surprisingly, it doesn’t happen that often. Even when the priority seats are occupied by people who don’t seem like they need them, they rarely get up and offer their seat. It doesn’t bother me because it actually hurts more when I sit too long. And I’m all about the chivalry. But I have observed some curious patterns in who offers and who doesn’t.

So who has offered their seats to me?

• Women in their 50’s and 60’s.
• Businessmen in their 40’s.

And that’s it. It’s weird how no other group gets up. Mind you, it doesn’t happen that often. But when it does, it’s always someone in one of those groups.

I’m always surprised when a woman in her 50’s or 60’s offers her seat. First of all, she’s of the age where she has a right to that seat. And second of all, all around her are college kids, office workers and young housewives who ought to be getting up instead of her. I never accept a seat from that lady.

On several occasions, while the woman is politely offering her seat to me and I’m politely refusing but thanking her, a young person sits down on her spot, so neither of us can sit down. On these occasions, I tap my cane on the usurper’s lap and say, “hey buddy, get up!” in English, because I don’t know how to say “hey buddy” in Japanese.  And because any sort of reproach comes out too polite in Japanese, when my intention is to be ornery.

I can surmise that the middle-aged woman offered her seat because she had been raised to be selfless. But I have no explanation for the guy in his 40’s. T thinks it may be that they may have had back problems themselves and feel some sympathy.

Stand Up!
Now let me list who I think should offer up seats to the elderly, pregnant, injured and infirm, but never do. In almost 4 years in Tokyo I have never seen these people offer their seats. Not once.

College students. You’re at the most energetic, healthy age of your life. And you barely attend class because college in Japan is considered a four-year vacation. So stop acting like you’re asleep and stand up.

Young housewives. And there are many in Tokyo, because most women quit their jobs when they get married in Japan. Believe me, I understand being a mother and wife can be thankless. But most of the ones in affluent Tokyo are very pampered. Once the kids are in school and your husband is off to work for the next 13 hours, your life consists of hours on the sofa watching TV, shopping, or chatting with friends at cafes. So please, won’t you please let the old lady sit?

Businessmen in their 20’s and 30’s. I know you work 13 hours a day, but you’re still a young man, and it’s the gentlemanly thing to do. So buck up and get up!

Businesswomen in their 20’s and 30’s. I really don’t mind you putting on make-up on the train, but that eyelash pulling thingy looks kind of dangerous on a moving train. Anyway, if anyone gets the brunt of Japanese society it’s the young working woman, but if I’m making the guys get up, you should too.

High school kids. It’s a tough age. You’ve got high school, then cram school, and club activities on weekends. There’s extreme pressure to pass college entrance exams. You get jilted with only a month and a half of summer vacation that’s not really a vacation because you have a stack of assigned homework. (Homework on summer vacation!?) Then there’s the bullying and the hellish experience of having hormones wreak havoc on you. But this is when you really need to learn good manners and so be a good kid and get up off your ass.

So it’s amazing, isn’t it? I have never observed the youngest and strongest of society give up their seats on a train. I want to give a pass to the office workers and the high school kids, because in Japan, their lives are grueling. But the leisure class of college kids and young housewives have no excuse.

I’m dumbfounded as to why these people don’t give up seats. But I do know that the years I’ve lived in Tokyo have eroded my sense of civility and chivalry. There are just so many people all jostling for space that it’s difficult to give up your space even if it is the right thing to do.  Still, it’s no excuse.  We’ve got to make space for those who need it more and can’t jostle a bit of space for themselves.

Comparing Hot Springs in Japan and the US

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Hot Springs in Hakone
The three museums I have recently reviewed are all in Hakone, a mountainous area west of Tokyo where there are lots of hot spring resorts. T and I went there during Christmas. It’s a popular weekend getaway for Tokyoites because it’s only an hour away, and there are many hotels with hot springs and baths to soak away the urban detritus.

The way hot springs are enjoyed in Japan is totally different than in America. First, Japan has lots of them because of all the geothermal activity, one of the few advantages of being in earthquake country. In the US, there are few. In fact, they’re quite rare.

Cougar Hot Springs

In Oregon, there were some hot springs around Eugene, and the most popular one is the Cougar Hot Springs. But you have to drive over an hour on some mountain roads. Then you have to find the landmarks that lead you to the dirt road. Go on this dirt road for a while until you come across a makeshift dirt parking lot filled with out-of-state cars; I rarely saw one with Oregon plates. Hike into the forest a bit until you emerge in a clearing.

What you’ll see is a series of pools, each one progressively cooler than the one above. There are lots of naked hippies soaking, playing music, smoking weed. It’s actually a pretty fun scene. But the Japanese hot spring experience, called onsen, is much more refined.

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Onsen
The onsen is not just a hole in the ground, out in the middle of nowhere. The hot water is pumped up from underground, channeled into a bath area with outdoor and indoor pools. The area is nicely landscaped. And they are separated for men and women.

The bath areas are part of a hotel. Often a luxurious meal is served in your room. Then people come in to put out the futon. Guests pad around the grounds in yukata, which are like bathrobes.

Instead of just hopping into the hot water, bathers are required to clean themselves before entering the pools. The baths are not for cleaning, just soaking. Then you chill out with a pool full of naked old men. Most of the time though, if you go during the off-season or the middle of the week, it’s quite empty. T and I actually were able to have chats with each other over the wall because there was no one.

Each onsen has it’s own mixture of minerals. Hakone has cloudy yellowish water, heavy on the sulfur. Hot springs in Tokyo usually have a clear reddish tint due to the abundance of copper. I think I remember Izu had a greenish hue. They all work the body in their own way. Like a local wine, each one has its own personality and medicinal qualities.

While it’s an interesting adventure trekking out to a naturally formed hot spring, I’d rather have the onsen experience. Either way, hot mineral water feels good and I’ll soak in one anywhere.

Photos are from the hotel website.