Frida’s Last Painting: The Windiad no. 10

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Circe
Odysseus was quite the player. Throughout his travels around the Aegean Sea, he was seduced by a number of divine women, or so he claims. After all, he was married so he’d have to claim that his acts of infidelity were coerced.

Yet there was one women with whom he stayed willingly and couldn’t cop any excuses about. That was Circe, another daughter of the sun god, Helios, and an oceanid, a kind of sea nymph. Her specialty was turning men into animals by tricking them into taking potions. As usual, Odysseus was able to avoid this fate, but his men were, again, less fortunate. They ate her food and turned into pigs. Odysseus stayed for a year, long after talking her into turning his men back into humans. She even gave birth to their son, then eventually gave him advice and directions on how to get back home.

Circe is often described as treacherous, but really she was just doing what all the other gods did, which was screw around with mortals for their entertainment. Otherwise, she was a generous hostess. Circe was Odysseus’ final dignified send-off back home. She was delicious bad luck, and slightly rancid good luck all rolled into one. And that’s really the best way to describe the end of my trip through the US.

Receding into the Background

The last two days in America were a blur of bad luck. We went down to Santa Cruz to visit my friend, Natascha, and hang out at my sister’s home. On the drive down we got a call that Natascha was in the emergency room.

The next day we decided to go to the Frida Kahlo exhibit at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art. We were pleased as plums to get a sweet parking space right across the street from the museum, only to come out later to find that the car had been towed. We had to pay for the tow, the processing charge, as well as the parking ticket. You’d think that with all the money they make from parking violations, the great city of San Francisco could fix some of its pothole infested roads.

Later that evening we realized that we had lost one of our cameras and most of our pictures from the redwoods, as well as some sweet photos of us with some Stormtroopers and the Incredible Hulk. Dang.

It was a hell of a way to end the trip and I was truly bummed out. On the other hand, the small morsels of delightful moments tipped it all back into something good.

For instance, we got to spend more time with Natascha than we would have if we just had lunch. We hung out in the emergency room as we waited for test results, while a steady stream of cheerful nurses and down-to-earth doctors came and went. And finally, the tests showed that there was nothing life-threatening. As one of my oldest and dearest friends, this was one of my most favorite reunions.

Then while in Santa Cruz we got to spend more time with my sister’s family, going to my nephew’s swim lesson, eating at a swanky Mexican restaurant in a historic ballroom, perusing through a bookstore (I actually just stood in one place the whole time reading a book about how nature would take back the world after humans disappeared), and then watching a late night movie (the gloomy Dark Knight).

Then T, my sister, and I got to spend quality time in SFMOMA, looking at the works of Frida Kahlo. She was like Circe that kept us longer than we had planned and which led to the car being towed. She was also a reminder that her life was much more tragic than a towed car could ever be, and still she came out of it fabulously creative and radiant.

And if these last days were a Frida Kahlo painting, and I were an art critic, the symbolism would be interpreted thus:

The emergency room is like a healing process that requires connecting with friends.
The art exhibit narrates that every journey must end with art.
The towed car represents the end of car culture.
The lost camera challenges the viewer to create memories without photographs.
The bad luck seems to fade into the background, while the foreground is punctuated with bright colors and unexpected shapes.

laughter

Motels and Chinese Take-out: The Windiad no. 9

art deco bridge

After we left Portland, it was the first time on the trip that T and I got to spend time with just ourselves. I had subjected her to all my friends and family and she was patient the whole time, even claiming that she was having a good time. Normally, we would be on a beach somewhere for our summer vacation, but instead we were careening through miles of dry oak shrubs. Instead of perusing colorful silks in Indochina, we were combing the aisles at Ross, Dress for Less. Plates of spicy green mangoes by the pool gave way to breakfast slams at Denny’s.

Yet it was all as exotically interesting to her as it was common to me.

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Before the trip, there were two things T wanted to experience that she considered archetypal American experiences. One was to stay at motels and the other was to eat out of those Chinese take-out boxes. Done and done.

We had a nice range of motels we stayed at. There was the very new and well-kept Day’s Inn. And one was the prototypical motel you see in the movies, with the manager or owner wandering into the lobby with his shirt unbuttoned exposing a big pot belly. But he was kind and the room was clean and well-maintained. Two motels had pools. Three had a sauna or hot tub.

All the motels had free wireless internet. That combined with the fact that nearly all cafes in the Northwest have free wireless internet, it’s one of the best wired places in the world.

Wind’s Quick and Easy Deconstruction of the Socio-economic Division of Labor in the Hospitality Industry

Of course, I tried to deconstruct the experience. Throughout our motel stays, the socio-economic division of labor appeared to be race-based. Half the motels (of our sample size of 4) were owned by South Asians. They usually operated the front desk themselves or they hired white women in their 30’s. The other motels were owned by whites and they hired college kids to work the front. The housekeeping consisted of only Hispanic women.

The people who stayed at the motels were almost all white. Most appeared to be retired couples. There were few kids, even though it was the middle of summer vacation. Every now and then, I heard French or German or Swedish being spoken. T and I were a complete anomaly.

That is until we reached the last motel. As I was filling out the motel registration in the lobby, four intimidating men in typical LA gangbanger clothes filed in. My guard went up immediately. And my city instincts went into- appear as unintimidated as possible while not being so cocky that they try to start a fight mode.

As I coolly tried to check out the scene from the corner of my eyes, I noticed that something wasn’t quite right. First of all, no gang would have two middle-aged guys. And second, no gang that I know of consists of blacks, whites and Latinos. Except maybe the police. And eventually, I came to the conclusion that that’s what they were. It was confirmed when I checked out their car and it was an unmarked white Crown Victoria (the most common model for police cars) with official plates. They must have been undercover agents of some sort. Was some bust going down in Crescent City? Whatever it was, it probably already happened since they seemed pretty tired.

And Now Back to Wind’s Usual Semi-sarcastic Light-hearted Blog Banter

take-out

As for the Chinese take-out. We went to the only Chinese restaurant in town, chit-chatted with the pretty Chinese lady who took our order, and did our part to bring the Beijing Olympics experience, and the “typical” American experience, closer, all in one wax-lined box.

The Peaceful Giants: The Windiad no. 8

among giants

The Laestrygonians (say that 5 times)
In the Odyssey, Odysseus and his men run into giants twice. The first time they stop off on the island of the Cyclops, and this story is always referred to. The lesser told tale is of the Laestrygonians. In the story, most of his ships sail into a harbor that was surrounded by tall cliffs, thus providing a unique protected area. Among his many phobias Odysseus had a fear of enclosed places. It could be called claustrophobia, except the harbor was quite large. A whole fleet could fit in there. It was more the fact that Odysseus had an uncanny ability to survive.

In the epic, his men are portrayed as over-eager and greedy. And once again they hastened to get off their boats and take a look around, devouring what provisions they could find. The truth was that Odysseus and his officers ate well and slept on mattresses that were dried daily.

The rest of the crew made do with moldy bread, rancid meat, and brackish water. Also, as I mentioned earlier, they were goat herders and farmers, who never could get used to sleeping on deck in rolling waters. Any excuse to feel the earth beneath their feet, get some fresh food and water, and they took it. Yes, the cliffs were a a little intimidating, but they craved land.

It was their undoing since a tribe of giants lived on the island and waited for such opportunities, to throw rocks off the cliffs and target ships for sport and spear men for food.

Odysseus, his ship safely outside the harbor, once again sailed off unscathed, out of the shadows of those giants and the cries of his men.

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Redwoods, the Silent Giants

The only giants we faced were the awesome giant forests of redwoods. Redwoods are the tallest trees in the world. Their trunks grow so massive that tunnels have been carved through them so roads could pass and thus attract tourists. Groves of trees thousands of years old still exist.

The secret of their success is the spongy bark that repels fire because of the moisture it holds and wards off pests because of the tannins it produces. Less than 5% of the original old-growth forests still exist. The rest of the redwood range which only grows along the Northern California coast, is filled with younger trees. Not so surprisingly, greedy logging companies still want to cut the rest of the these down but most are now protected.

We spent several nights in Crescent City, a ramshackle coastal city, near many state parks and national forests and parks. The biggest trees we saw had massive trunks that could easily encompass our Tokyo apartment. The best was a trail called Boy Scout Trail in the Jedediah Smith State Park. There were almost no people and you could fully appreciate the eerie silence, another advantage of the spongy bark which act as sound proofing.

In the groves of these giants, you can feel the fairies, sprites and other wood spirits watching you through the fog.

The Dark Knight

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Dark. Dark. Dark. Dark Knight is a study of the evil in everyone. The center of the story is the Joker. I searched in vain for anything resembling Heath Ledger, the actor who played the Joker, and found only a soul in shambles, a horror show of lost humanity.

Batman in comparison is wooden, predictable, only made interesting as he was drawn closer to the game the Joker played. Although his moral inflexibility results in him losing the people he loves. The Joker’s game is to turn everything upside-down, inside-out, and grinded into sloppy joes. And then convulse back again. His only goal is to create chaos for the sake of chaos.

Morgan Freeman, who plays Batman’s inventor and business liaison, and Michael Caine who plays the butler, loyally cling to any sense of a moral compass. I wish these two had shared one scene at least. I wanted them to look at each other, and acknowledge the only other points of sanity in the movie. They wouldn’t even have to say anything. Just glance at each other. Then return to their jobs of eking out a sense of calmness and reason.

I watched the movie with a late night audience that felt sinister to sit among. I’m sure it was just the usual stoned university crowd, but the Joker sucked me into his world of paranoia on the brink of violence.

What a heavy movie. But I loved the risk it took for a Hollywood movie to embrace despair and pitilessly trample the notion of a happy ending.